Feed! Feed! Feed!
We provide pollen substitute throughout the summer. It makes a significant difference in the population and health of our bee colonies.
Here's a fitting metaphor: Imagine buying a puppy, taking it home, and never feeding it properly, not taking it to the vet, never deworming it, never exercising it, and never providing love and training. How long do you think that dog would live, and what quality of life would it have?
Another one: Imagine being a farmer with cattle and not providing them with good hay for the winter, not vaccinating them against common diseases, and not ensuring they have shelter from rain, harsh sun during summer, and snow during winter. How long do you think you would stay in the cattle business? The answer to both scenarios is not long. You must take good care of your animals.
So, let's give our bees the best start possible. Feed them consistently, and provide them with Complete Bee food in the syrup.
Perform a mite infestation test regularly and treat for mites using any effective method. Any infestation above 2% requires treatment. I often hear people say, "I don't see any mites on my bees." Well, mites are not always visible. You need to understand the mite life cycle. They are your enemy! Know your enemy!
Provide a Pollen Patty for your bees during pollen dearth periods and also when they are raising brood in the spring. After harvesting the honey in the fall, feed them 1:1 syrup. This simulates a nectar flow, encouraging new brood development for winter. Once the young brood are established, feed them 2:1 syrup until they stop taking it. Throughout this time, keep providing them with pollen patties until they stop consuming them. How much pollen? I feed seven pounds per hive every year. I'll feed 6-7 pounds per hive in January.
Treat for mites before winter sets in. Also, treat for mites in a broodless state, ideally in the middle of winter. Oxalic Acid Vaporization is the most effective method during that time. It has been legal in the USA since March 10th, 2015.
Here in the Northwest, ensure proper ventilation for your hive to prevent moisture buildup. A simple vent made from a 3/8-inch piece of wood under the inner cover works great.
If you follow these practices diligently, you will give your bees the best chance of survival. Neglecting any of these steps can significantly reduce their survivability, potentially leading to colony loss. Each step you fail to complete can decrease their survival rate by 10%. This can result in a survivability rate of less than 50%, which means those bees will not survive. I guarantee it. Successful beekeeping is about doing the right things at the right time.
I recently met a beekeeper who admitted he doesn't check on his bees or do anything for them until March. This way, he knows how many packages to order. He's my best customer, haha. Bless his heart... He has lost all his bees in the last two winters.
Another beekeeper complained to me that he lost all 35 colonies last year. His bees never leave an area where they spray fungicides on the berries. NEW FLASH! A new study has shown that fungicides kill bee bread. Maybe he needs new comb. I hear similar stories with many other beekeepers I talk to.
Anyway, I'll stop my rant and encourage you to do a Google search on Randy Oliver and his website, scientificbeekeeping.com.
Please consider sending him a check if you learn something valuable from his research. He is not sponsored by anyone, which means he is not beholden to any particular agenda. He's an intelligent, independent, and knowledgeable man who is dedicated to helping beekeepers succeed.
We provide pollen substitute throughout the summer. It makes a significant difference in the population and health of our bee colonies.
Here's a fitting metaphor: Imagine buying a puppy, taking it home, and never feeding it properly, not taking it to the vet, never deworming it, never exercising it, and never providing love and training. How long do you think that dog would live, and what quality of life would it have?
Another one: Imagine being a farmer with cattle and not providing them with good hay for the winter, not vaccinating them against common diseases, and not ensuring they have shelter from rain, harsh sun during summer, and snow during winter. How long do you think you would stay in the cattle business? The answer to both scenarios is not long. You must take good care of your animals.
So, let's give our bees the best start possible. Feed them consistently, and provide them with Complete Bee food in the syrup.
Perform a mite infestation test regularly and treat for mites using any effective method. Any infestation above 2% requires treatment. I often hear people say, "I don't see any mites on my bees." Well, mites are not always visible. You need to understand the mite life cycle. They are your enemy! Know your enemy!
Provide a Pollen Patty for your bees during pollen dearth periods and also when they are raising brood in the spring. After harvesting the honey in the fall, feed them 1:1 syrup. This simulates a nectar flow, encouraging new brood development for winter. Once the young brood are established, feed them 2:1 syrup until they stop taking it. Throughout this time, keep providing them with pollen patties until they stop consuming them. How much pollen? I feed seven pounds per hive every year. I'll feed 6-7 pounds per hive in January.
Treat for mites before winter sets in. Also, treat for mites in a broodless state, ideally in the middle of winter. Oxalic Acid Vaporization is the most effective method during that time. It has been legal in the USA since March 10th, 2015.
Here in the Northwest, ensure proper ventilation for your hive to prevent moisture buildup. A simple vent made from a 3/8-inch piece of wood under the inner cover works great.
If you follow these practices diligently, you will give your bees the best chance of survival. Neglecting any of these steps can significantly reduce their survivability, potentially leading to colony loss. Each step you fail to complete can decrease their survival rate by 10%. This can result in a survivability rate of less than 50%, which means those bees will not survive. I guarantee it. Successful beekeeping is about doing the right things at the right time.
I recently met a beekeeper who admitted he doesn't check on his bees or do anything for them until March. This way, he knows how many packages to order. He's my best customer, haha. Bless his heart... He has lost all his bees in the last two winters.
Another beekeeper complained to me that he lost all 35 colonies last year. His bees never leave an area where they spray fungicides on the berries. NEW FLASH! A new study has shown that fungicides kill bee bread. Maybe he needs new comb. I hear similar stories with many other beekeepers I talk to.
Anyway, I'll stop my rant and encourage you to do a Google search on Randy Oliver and his website, scientificbeekeeping.com.
Please consider sending him a check if you learn something valuable from his research. He is not sponsored by anyone, which means he is not beholden to any particular agenda. He's an intelligent, independent, and knowledgeable man who is dedicated to helping beekeepers succeed.